The Gay Belgrade Guide (Serbia 🇷🇸)

Table of Contents

• Intro to Gay Belgrade
• What Is It Like To Be LGBTQ+ in Serbia?
• Gay Map of Belgrade
• Where to Stay in Belgrade
  • Best Hotels in Belgrade
• Gay Belgrade Nightlife
• Gay Saunas in Belgrade
• Belgrade Pride
• What to Eat in Belgrade
  • Best Restaurants in Belgrade
  • Best Cafes in Belgrade
• What to Do in Belgrade
• Day Trips From Belgrade
• TL;DR: Plan Your Belgrade Trip (Logistics)

Intro to Gay Belgrade

Getting the chance to spend a month and a half in Belgrade, the Serbian capital, happened by pure chance for us. I was speaking with an old friend on WhatsApp, who had just moved back to Belgrade (her birthplace before the wartime era that transpired in the 1990s and 2000s) from Berlin and jokingly asked her if she had a flat to rent, as I had been curious about the city and country for many years. Long story short, she rented us her flat, as her mother's was also free, and we were on a flight to Belgrade.

Is Belgrade a good city to visit?

It doesn't take long to fall in love with Belgrade. Despite its tumultuous past (including being involved in multiple wars since I was born in 1991), the city feels like it has revived itself and is going through its golden era. There is plenty of life pulsating through its streets, with hip cafés and restaurants everywhere, boats scattering the Sava River and Danube River containing stylish craft beer breweries, lush parks, and museums/theaters/arts galore.

As it is much smaller than other capital cities like London and Berlin, one can get a grasp of the city relatively quickly and feel quickly at home.

However, as this is a gay Belgrade guide, let's first break down this topic and demystify it a bit, as it is a tricky one.

What Is It Like To Be LGBTQ+ in Serbia?

Short answer: it hasn't been easy, but things are improving at a snails-pace.

Long answer: Dominated by the strict Serbian orthodox church, the country has struggled with integrating the concept of homosexuality into daily life. Homosexual activities were only decriminalized in 1994 and as one can imagine, equal LGBTQ rights has been met with a lot of aversion, with even 21% of Serbians believing that homosexuals should be charged as criminals - I mean what are we doing wrong 🤣. Belgrade is notably much more liberal than the rest of the country and holds Belgrade Pride parade annually, but even that was shut down by right-wing protestors in 2010 (only commencing again in 2014).

Nonetheless, Serbia and especially Belgrade is at a cross-roads moment, where hopefully things can only go up from here. Prime Minister, Ana Brnabic, is a lesbian, there are gay bars and clubs (albeit a few, which we will list later on), and definitely a queer urban culture emerging, but admittedly Belgrade isn't going to be as wild and free as other cities like Berlin and New York.

Our Take on Gay Culture in Belgrade

As you may imagine from the previous paragraphs, the scene and LGBTQ community may not feel as cohesive as other places, but that doesn't mean the gay life isn't thriving.

What is Grindr like in Belgrade?

One thing that can help us easily distinguish a gay-friendly city versus one where we have to be a bit more discrete is as easy as switching on Grindr. When browsing the selection on Grindr, we noticed that very few people will show their faces (with those that showed their face tending to be foreigners). Even when sending pictures, they tend to be expiring images and even then do they not always send their faces. On top of that, the guys that we spoke to were not out to their families and were the epitome of discrete.

So, where do gay men meet up in Belgrade?

But even so, there are still safe spaces where LGBT people congregate including bars, clubs and even a sauna. The most notable was a nightclub called Musk Machine where everyone was out and proud, dancing the night away to Balkan tunes.

So while it is a bit more discrete than other places in Europe, that shouldn't dissuade you from going. Fabio told one of his close friends in Belgrade that he was gay, and she reacted positively and eager to learn more.

It is beneficial for LGBTQ+ travelers to come to these places to help locals better understand our world.

Tips as a Gay Traveler to Belgrade

• Come with an open mind and don't expect Berlin or London gay vibes
• Avoid public display of affection (PDA)
• Use apps like Grindr to meet the local Belgradians. Many will be discrete, but the guys are very kind towards foreigners.
• Check out some gay or gay-friendly venues in the city.

Gay Map of Belgrade

Where to Stay in Belgrade

During our time in Belgrade, we were spoiled and stayed in the heart of it all, Stari Grad (Old Town), but having explored other nearby areas, one cannot go wrong with any of these districts.

Note: as gay life isn't as prominent here, there aren't really gay districts, but these districts are close to the hotspots:

Stari Grad (Old Town)

Stari Grad, or Old Town, serves as the cultural and historical epicenter of Belgrade, featuring the pedestrian-only Knez Mihailova Street with its shops and cafés, and the historic Kalemegdan Belgrade Fortress, which offers stunning views of the Sava and Danube Rivers. This district is ideal for first-time visitors, providing easy access to major attractions, ample dining options, and recommended accommodations.

Kalemegdan Fortress in all her glory

Dorćol

Dorćol is a vibrant district perfect for people-watching over coffee, featuring a rich history as a significant trading post during the Ottoman-era and a contemporary reputation for excellent cafés and restaurants. Known for its Bohemian past, it remains a popular spot with kafanas and upscale dining, making it a top choice for central accommodation in Belgrade.

Vračar

Situated on hills just beyond Old Town, Vračar is a compact yet bustling district known for its residential appeal and cultural sites, including the impressive Church of St. Sava and the Nikola Tesla Museum. This district is recognized for its significant landmarks such as the Kalenić Market and the National Library, making it one of the most desirable areas to stay or live in Belgrade. Restaurants are definitely a bit cheaper out here, too.

Best Hotels in Belgrade

Most Gay-Friendly Hotels in Belgrade

• Mercure Belgrade Excelsior: Always a gay-friendly chain, the Mercure Belgrade Excelsior is also right in the heart of the city and is known for its super comfy beds.

Some Luxury Hotels in Belgrade

• Hotel Moskva: A hotel famed for its architecture and its resilience to survive many wars. Albert Einstein, Brad Pitt, and Indira Gandhi, among many other world figures, have stayed there, so you know it is going to be good!
• Belgrade Art Hotel: Right on the famed pedestrian road, Knez Mihailova Street, this hotel's high sense of style can be inferred directly from its name.
• Mama Shelter: Also on the pedestrian street, this hotel is part of the Mama Shelter hotel chain, which never fails to deliver. Also has a rooftop terrace, which is unlike anywhere else in the city.
• Xenon Hotel & SPA: A different side of Belgrade if you are the kind that doesn't like to not in the center of it all. The big benefit are the pools and saunas here.

Cheaper Hotels in Belgrade

• Belgrade City Hotel: Just a 15-minute walk from Republic Square and across from the Old Train Station (a sexy building, may we say)
• Natali Luxury Suites: Although luxury is in the name, this hotel does not come at a luxury price. A big plus is that you are right in the center.

The famous Hotel Moskva in all its glory

Gay Belgrade Nightlife

So moral of the story before we even get into it, Belgrade is not filled with gay bars or gay clubs. There are a few strictly gay venues that we will list, but we noticed bars open and close very quickly in this city, so be sure to check that they are still in existence before heading there.

We will also list some fantastic alternative venues that we loved while staying in Belgrade, gay or not 😘. Honestly, we liked a lot of these alternatives more than the gay selection.

Belgrade Gay Clubs & Belgrade Gay Bars

• Musk Machine: This is the only real gay club we came across while searching up and down Belgrade. Built into the side of a stadium, Musk Machine is kitsch, it is loud, it is smoky, but it is a fun time and the most quintessential gay Belgrade experience there is. There is one main room blasting Balkan beats (without the smoothest transitions 🤣), relatively cheap drinks (with cute, oddly themed bartenders), insane light shows, and as it is one of the few gay venues, it fills up with quite a lot of locals and foreigners.

  • Keep in mind, they only hold an event on Friday and Saturday nights
  • The address on the Instagram isn't entirely accurate; I reckon they do this out of discreteness and not to not let assholes in, so when you get close to the advertised address, message them on Instagram (or even Grindr) and they will give you further instructions on how to get there.

Musk Machine, not made for those that are epileptic

Ryan sitting on his throne at Musk Machine

• Bar 54 (Smiley Bar): Right in the center, it is still not entirely easy to find Bar 54 (Smiley Bar). You have to head through the alley from Kolarčeva and there will be a very discreetly marked bar with darkened windows on your right (either that or follow the Arianna Grande music blasting into the alley). The bar is small with two floors. At peak times on Friday or Saturday, you will have to push through the crowd on the first floor to get a drink, but everyone is friendly. The second floor has some seating.

  • This one is open quite a lot, so you can even come during the day for a coffee.

The winner of the most conspicuous looking gay bar award? - Bar 54!

In terms of strictly gay venues, this was all we could confirm existed. There are some others on different websites that didn't seem to exist any longer.

Other Belgrade Clubs and Bars We Loved

First of all, familiarize yourself on Splav (Boat) Nightlife ⛴️. We write more about this later on, so feel free to jump to this section.

And here are some other bars and clubs and drinking spots we adored:

• Silosi: Belgrade does a good job at taking old, run-down places and giving them an entirely new identity. Take Silosi, for example, once an agricultural, Brutalist bunch of silos, it is now one of the best places in Belgrade with an event space, art gallery, and as I am listing it here, a bar/club. Right on the Danube River, the silos are now splattered with murals, and it is incredible vibes during the light of day in the summer.

  • Not too far from here is ANOTHER industrial complex converted into bars. So after you go to Silosi, check out vibey, down-tempo bars like Ruke or if you are into house and techno, KPTM.

How cool is Silosi?!

• Cetinjska 15: Coined as the "Belgrade Kreuzberg", this is a group of bars and clubs built out of an old beer factory. The area has been scheduled to be torn down (but this hasn't yet gone to plan), so check it out before it is too late.

  • Zaokret: This may as well be a bit of an unofficial gay bar 🏳️‍🌈, as both times we were there, our gaydar was ringing off the hook. It has nice outdoors vibes and craft beers.
  • Bluz i Pivo: It was surprising to find a blues and jazz bar in Belgrade, but well, there it was! Even on a Monday, it was the place to be.
  • Dim: A club right in the art of the old beer factory, Dim boasts an incredible atmosphere.

• Kafe Bar Blaznavac: Young super hip crowd and some mean cocktails.

• Ben Akiba: Located alongside a strip of bars overlooking the Sava River, the double floor club knows how to throw an all-night event. There is pop on the first floor, and the second floor, which charges entrance, sports more electronic music.

Belgrade Nightlife Tips

• Belgrade is still big on smoking 🚬, and this is allowed in bars and clubs. Just beware, you will leave every venue smelling like an ashtray unless you find some outdoor seating.
• Generally there are servers going around that will take drink orders from you (versus you going up to the bar); feel free to throw in a little tip when you order a round.
• A lot of the places mentioned double as cafés during the day, so they are great places to grab a coffee or get some work done.
• Keep an eye on dress-codes when going out to certain clubs. I went to a club called Ben Akiba (techno and very alternative vibe; not one of the strictly gay venues), but almost got kicked out for wearing a tank top 😬. People dress a bit more conservatively here, and it isn't necessarily homophobia, like I thought 😆.

Gay Saunas in Belgrade

Believe it or not, there is a Belgrade gay sauna! However, as I have mentioned a few times in this guide, adjust your expectations. In our honest opinion, it just doesn't feel as though Belgrade is ready for a sauna yet.

The current sauna, Red Line, is opened Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings, and is a bit on the pricey side for a sauna even by Western European standards. Even at peak periods, it is known to not be packed.

However, we are letting you know it is there and whatever happens, it will be an experience 😁.

Gay Cruising in Belgrade

If you are interested in cruising, be sure to visit Lake Sava, which is surrounded by extensive recreational areas. The southern part of Belgrade has great restaurants and bars.

On the other side of the lake, you'll find alternative bars and a nudist beach, known for its cozy atmosphere and popularity with the gay community.

Many men are gathered at the back of the beach. It's a bit of a walk from the station, so it's easier to visit if you rent a bike on the east side of this beautiful island.

Belgrade Pride

As mentioned, the annual pride parade has faced trials and tribulations in the past, but has been running since 2014 without (🤞) problems. In 2023, it was the largest pride event to date with 10,000 attendees.

It is the last pride event of the year in Europe, happening at the beginning of September, so you can successfully wrap up your pride summer in Belgrade 😉.

In 2024, Belgrade Pride Week is scheduled from September 2 to September 8, 2024, and the Pride parade itself will be on September 7.

Keep an eye on our European Pride Calendar for more up-to-date details!

There is even a Pride info center!

What to Eat in Belgrade

Belgrade is a massive foodies' city. Whether you are out to try some traditional Serbian dishes or tired of Serbian food and in need of a Neapolitan-style pizza, Belgrade has it all.

Best Restaurants in Belgrade

The restaurant scene in Belgrade is international, particularly in the center. As you can imagine, prices fall quite drastically once outside the city center, so if you are on a budget, keep in mind you will find fantastic (mostly Serbian) food for much cheaper outside the tourist districts.

Serbian Restaurants in Belgrade

First, check out the Skardalija style restaurants. We write more about this later on, so feel free to jump to this section.

For other Serbian restaurants with fantastic local cuisine, check out:

• Kolubaru u Šoru: Done in Skardalija style, this newer restaurant fuses the best of Serbian dishes. Ask about the Pljeskavica which is literally inside a burek and borderline heavenly.
• Kafana SFRJ: Cool location overlooking the mighty Sava River.
• Iva New Balkan Cuisine: If you are looking for a contemporary-take on Balkan cuisine, look no further. They use locally-available, high quality ingredients.

For drunk Serbian fast food 🤣:

You have to head to Cevonik Vruć Burek for 24 hours of burek and Skadarlijski šiš ćevap across the street for the famous Skadarlijski spicy sausage. Next to this on the corner is a burger place that serves Pljeskavica (I cannot track down the name); try it with the spicy feta sauce as it is literally to die for.

Burek heaven, 24 hours a day

Our Favorite International Restaurants:

• Smokvica: Very trendy with a few locations and a range of international choices.
• Bloom: A vibey place serving all-day breakfast and brunch.
• Prekoputa Proleća: Also serving all-day breakfast and brunch alongside cocktails. We like the outside during the summer as it can get a bit smoky inside.
• Giovannis: You may think you are in beautiful Napoli when eating at this restaurant, the Neapolitan pizzas are spot-on.
• Curry Souls: If you ever find yourself looking for authentic Sri Lankan in Belgrade 🤔 or just need to mix it up, the food here is on-point!

Best Cafes in Belgrade

• Leila Records: The website may give off record store vibes, but it is so much more than that. All under the leafy green shade of trees, during the day there is a café, which is transformed into a bar at night (with vinyl DJs of course)
• Meduza: Next door to Leila, is Meduza, another unofficial gay café cum bar 🏳️‍🌈 with a very progressive attitude.
• Latife: Serves a decent Americano and is a great place to get a bit of work done, with both indoor and outdoor seating. Right off of the main walking street in the old town.
• eklekitika 40: A nice outdoor space to relax with Turkish (ehemm Serbian-style coffee). The owner is a super nice man from Turkey, and he also serves a really nice Pale Ale style beer from Montenegro.

What to Do in Belgrade

Do a Crash Course Tour on Belgrade

Before coming to Belgrade, we knew entirely too little about the city and Serbia. One of the first things we did was take a free tour of the downtown to acclimate ourselves. The guide brought us through the streets and demystified topics like Serbian language, Serbia's tulmotuous history and part in Yugoslavia, Serbian culture and politics, etc. Doing this type of crash course is a must in a city with such a fascinating past and soon made us curious to know more.

Go Wild Over the Varied Architecture

A walk in Belgrade is a step back through many eras, particularly in Stari Grad (Old Town) where there are buildings ranging from Austro-Hungarian elegance to Ottoman Empire functionality to Communist Yugoslavia weird to modern day glass mammoths. If you are architecture fans like us, every turn in the street (especially on Knez Mihailova Street) is going to ignite your inner child. As big-time Yugoslavian-era brutalist architecture fans, we recommend Novi Belgrade (New Belgrade) and its Western City Gate (and the not-as-ridiculous, but still quite cool, Eastern City Gate). In contrast, you have impressive churches like the Church of Saint Sava or the Church of Saint Mark. Also check out the bizarrely designed, Belgrade Design District.

Probs being inappropriate in front of Belgrade's largest church

The Western Gate

The weirdness that is Belgrade Design District

Experience Dinner Like the Serbs Do On Skardalija Street

As mentioned in the restaurants section, if you are coming to Belgrade, one thing you will need to try are the restaurants on Skardalija, a Bohemian street in the center with cute cobblestone walkways. Here you have a strip of traditional Serbian restaurants where local string bands will come right up to your table, and with a song recommendation and a little tip, will serenade you. I feel like it helps to be a Serbian to get the most out of it, as they only do Serbian songs. Yet either way, when paired with a lot of rakija and local wine*, * this is a must-try.

Give one of these two a try:

• Velika Skardalija Restaurant
• Tri šešira

Not the most relaxing of dinners, but well, it is all the experience!

Explore Kalemegdan Park and Fortress

It is impossible to miss Kalemegdan Park and Fortress, as it takes up the entire tip of Belgrade where the Sava River meets the Danube. It is this incredible park that utilizes its waterfront in a way no other city does. Smack dab in the middle is Kalemegdan Fortress, a place that is not only a symbol of Belgrade's long and diverse history (it has changed hands between the Romans, the Ottomans, and more!) but also a vibrant cultural and social hub. It serves as a reminder of the city's strategic importance and resilience through various historical epochs.

I would recommend wandering around it, heading down to the waterfront, and eventually grabbing a well-deserved drink at one of the fortress' kafanas. One of the fabulous ones that give off perfect summer vibes is Boho Bar.

Get Drinks or Party on a Splav

One of the unique things about Belgrade, is that it is surrounded by the Sava and Danube rivers, so the city makes use of its waterfront more than other places we have been to.

One way they make use of it is having splavs (or giant floating rafts), which during the summer, will transform into lively bars and clubs.

Our favorites were:

• Brodić Na Savi (bar): With craft beer (Salto) and pizza and sexy views of the Ada Bridge, this is a hipster sailor's delight and one of the best places to hang out and relax on the Sava. It has both indoor and outdoor seating.
• 20/44 (club): Named cleverly after the coordinates for Belgrade, this one is for all the electronic music lovers out there. While this English Guardian article is from 2014 and therefore heavily dated, it is rated as one of the "Best Clubs in Europe" up there with Belgrade, and we agree. Partying on a boat is just way better.

One of many, many splavs on the Danube and Sava

Relax By the Beaches of Lake Sava

Branching off of the Sava River, Lake Sava is the spot where locals go to chill out during the summer. For nature and exercise-lovers, you have ample running space. In addition to long pebble beaches, there are restaurants and bars all over with reasonable prices.

Some run, we drink!

Wander Zemun

Zemun is your little Austro-Hungarian slice in Belgrade. Once its own town, it became part of Belgrade in 1934. Architecturally speaking, you will feel like you are in, well, Austria or Hungary, when you wander around it. Make sure to check out the tiny fortress.

Tongues out over Zemun

Get Your Museum Fix

If this is your thing, allot a few hours to the many museums that make of Belgrade. A few notable ones are:

• National Museum: You won't miss this one from the outside, as it is right in the center of Republic Square. It gives you an idea of the history of Serbia, as depicted entirely through art, over the course of centuries. It is free on Sundays (yay for free things)!
• Museum of Yugoslavia: Exactly as it sounds, this museum highlights the epic period of Serbian history in which Belgrade was the capital of Yugoslavia. Tito, the godfather of communist Yugoslavia, has his tomb located right next to it. There are some dates in which entrance is free, so keep an eye on the website. Check out the over-the-top café and restaurant, Hyde Park, afterwards.
• Nikola Tesla Museum: The Serbian-American is known for his generation, transmission, and use of alternating current (AC) electricity and there is a whole museum about him.

The kitsch and wonderful, Hyde Park

See a Show at the National Theater

The National Theater is conveniently next to the National Museum in Republic Square and if you are up for it, they put on some memorable performances. While the dramas will be in Serbian and probably a bit difficult to understand (Serbian is a hard language 😓), they also offer operas and ballets in which language barriers will be less of an issue.

Day Trips From Belgrade

Novi Sad (and Northern Serbia)

Novi Sad is the second-largest city in Serbia. It straddles the Danube as well, gives off a much more Austro-Hungarian baroque vibes than Belgrade, and in general is much more relaxed and smaller.

You can get there by train, and it will take about 1 hour.

If you have a bit more time and a car, go ahead and explore the rest of Vojvodina province.

Novi Sad baroqueness

Montenegro

Well not exactly a day trip, but if you have a weekend or more, then head down to Montenegro. The two countries were the final members of Yugoslavia and you will have some pretty incredible sea access here - rivaling that of Croatia!

You can take a train directly from Belgrade to Bar, Montenegro.

TL;DR: Plan Your Belgrade Trip (Logistics)

Best Time to Visit Belgrade

To get the full experience, late Spring (May) to late Summer (September) are your best bets. This is the time when life is fully in swing and the splavs (boats) are open all along the Sava and Danube for your drinking enjoyment.

Do I need a visa for Serbia?

• EU, EEA, or Swiss Citizen/USA/UK: You can stay a maximum of 3 months in the Serbia for tourism purposes.

• For other countries, take a look at iVisa.

How to Get to Belgrade

• By air: Belgrade is served by Nikola Tesla Airport (BEG) (yes, he is kinda a big deal around Belgrade).

  • To get to the city from the airport, you have these public transportation options.
  • If you'd rather take a cab, there is a kiosk before you exit the building where you purchase a flat rate voucher for 3,000 Serbian Dinar and give it to the taxi drivers outside. Don't pay any more than that.

• By train: Belgrade is not the most connected European city, so rail is most likely going to be your most inconvenient option. For instance just getting from neighboring Budapest, Hungary to Belgrade, you will have to piece together multiple rail journeys 🤣. Traveling internally by train is a bit easier.

• By bus: Bus is the way to go if you are looking for slow travel options from other major cities in Europe. Flixbus has a lot of options.

Internet and Data in Belgrade 🛜

The latest alternative that we have been using when travelling is eSIMs. We use Airalo in every country we go. Through them, you can get an e-SIM that has coverage for most countries in Europe for much cheaper than roaming. Just make sure to research whether your phone is e-SIM compatible before buying an e-SIM. If you go this way, buy it before your trip and make sure you set it up beforehand as well (and turn off your normal SIM before connecting to data).

Health and Safety in Belgrade

Belgrade has a lower crime rate than London, so you should feel safe wherever you go. Exercise a bit more caution in districts such as New Belgrade and Zemun.

As a gay traveler, definitely do not display any affection on the streets (keep it to the hotel room 😉).

Make sure you get your travel medical insurance!

Getting Around

🚶‍♀️

Belgrade is a fabulous walking city, as most of the sights you will want to explore are in walking distance.

🚌/🚇

Belgrade has an extensive bus and tram network that will get you wherever you need to go.

To get a transportation ticket in Belgrade, find a Moj Kiosk (the logo will become as recognizable as McDonald's the longer you are in the city), which are typically nearby major bus stops, and ask for a Zona A ticket (you probably won't need to go outside this zone). You can do a 90-minute ticket or a day ticket, and it will not set you back very much. This page will have the updated prices. Make sure to have cash when purchasing the tickets.

Occasionally, you will have ticket checkers come on buses or trams, but we've never experienced it, so it is not the end of the world if you cannot find a kiosk to buy a transportation ticket.

🚴‍♀️

Belgrade isn't the world's most bike friendly city, except around the waterfront where it is exceptionally bike friendly 🤣. You will not find bikeshare and/or scooter shares around.

🚕

Belgrade uses the classic, old-school method of hailing of taxis down. Alternatively, I used the Yandex Go app on my phone and it gives you a much more trustable rate. The only issue is I wasn't able to get it working with my foreign number, so I used a friend's Serbian number. Either way, make sure to have cash to pay for this.

What is the Currency in Serbia?

The currency in Serbia is the Serbian Dinar (RSD). 1 euro typically was a bit more than 100 RSD, so the conversion became quite simple.

How Much Do I Tip in Serbia?

Leaving a 10% to 15% tip is usually the go-to. My Serbian friend would scold me if I tried to leave anything more than 500 RSD 🤣.

What Else Do I Need to Know About Belgrade and Serbia?

• Power Plugs - Type F: Do yourself a favor and pick up a universal converter beforehand.
• Tap water is completely safe to drink in Belgrade
• Generally cards are accepted everywhere. I only needed cash with taxis and when buying public transport tickets. Having cash handy is helpful, though.

Sexy sunsets over the Sava