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Step Back in Time: 10 Things to Do in Sheki, Azerbaijan
- Name
- Ryan K
- @thefabryk
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Sheki is a charming town famed as a resting point on the Silk Road that instantly captures your heart. Nestled amidst mountains, it offers a blend of history, culture, and flavor that leaves you mesmerized.
This was our last point in Azerbaijan before popping over the border to Georgia, and we found it to be a pleasant and relaxing change from the wild, hustle culture of Baku. Sure, all the black tea that the hospitable Sheki-ites kept forcing us to drink led to chaotic sleep patterns, but we adapted and could have easily stayed there for longer.
So, whether you're drawn by its history along the Silk Road or its unique blend of culture and cuisine, Sheki offers plenty to marvel at.
Let's start with some logistics before getting into the best things to do in Sheki:
Sheki Logistics
Where to Stay in Sheki
Most people who come to Sheki opt to stay at the iconic Caravanserai (Karvansaray Hotel). We will get into more about this later in the post, but basically it is a famed resting place on the Silk Road, and still operates as accommodations for weary travelers today. Unfortunately, in the age of technology, it is actually not possible to book online, so you are either going to have to chance it upon arrival or call and speak to reception in order to book a stay.
We opted for staying outside the old town, as we generally have this fear that the old towns in cities will be overrun by tourists. While this was not the case in Sheki when we were visiting, either way, we are glad to have experienced some very local vibes in the slightly more awake and busy main town of Sheki. We stayed at Nuray's House for one night, and it was one of the best places we stayed in Azerbaijan, as it was cozy, simple, and we loved talking with Shebi, the girl who runs the guesthouse. The rest of the time, we stayed in a homestay (see item number 8).
Some other hotel recommendations:
- Sheki Palace Hotel: In staying here, you'll basically be living in the footsteps of the khans, as this is just meters away to Sheki Khan's Palace. Rooms are designed in a classic style and you have an indoor pool on-site.
- Marxal Resort & Spa: If you are in the mood to get pampered, Marxal's is for you. With saunas, steam rooms, and even a cinema, this is the place to come if you're looking for a little splurge. It is closer to Kish Village than Sheki but just a short cab ride away from the center of town.
Porch hanging at Nuray's Guesthouse
How to get to Sheki
- By Bus: Regular buses and minibuses (marshrutkas) operate from Baku International Bus Terminal to Sheki. The journey takes around 5-6 hours and is one of the most affordable ways to reach Sheki. Buses leave daily and offer a comfortable, budget-friendly option.
- By Car: Driving to Sheki from Baku is another great choice, especially for those who enjoy exploring at their own pace. The drive takes about 4-5 hours via the M4 highway, with opportunities to stop and see small towns and viewpoints along the way. Car rentals are available in Baku, making it easy to plan your route and timing.
- Private Taxi or Shared Ride: For a quicker and more direct trip, hiring a private taxi or arranging a shared ride is convenient. Private taxis can be arranged from Baku, though be sure to negotiate the price before setting off.
- By Train: As Azerbaijan works on upgrading their train infrastructure around the country, this option is not available at the moment.
How many days should I stay in Sheki?
We spent 3 nights in Sheki, and it was an ample amount of time to see things slowly (but we are quite slow travelers). If you move a bit quicker, spending one night should be enough. However, if you want to really soak in the pace of Sheki, plan at least two nights.
Can you do a day trip to Sheki from Baku?
If you are strained for time, it is definitely possible to do a day trip from Baku, but just beware that you will be spending most of your waking hours in the vehicle and probably very few in actual Sheki. Of course, if there is no other way, you should definitely try to sneak in Sheki during your time in Azerbaijan.
Here are some tours that we recommend:
- Best Sheki Tour (includes the village of Kish): Sheki Cultural and Historical Shared Tour
- Best Private Sheki Tour: Private Sheki Tour
Alright time for the actual list of things to do in Sheki:
1. Wander Through Sheki Khan’s Palace
Start your Sheki exploration at the Sheki Khan’s Palace. While you can't take photos inside the actual palace (it was actually more of an administrative building), the memory of the intricate interior will stick with you. It's an epitome of craftsmanship with frescoes and intricate glass work. Inside, you'll find yourself immersed in colors and patterns so captivating, it’s hard to believe it took just ten years to craft this masterpiece. And what is even more impressive is there wasn't a single screw or bolt involved. This palace is a must-visit for any history buff or architecture enthusiast.
On your way down to the next item in our list, make sure to wander off-course a bit, as the streets quickly takes on the feel of a village.
2. Discover the Sheki Caravanserai
Step back in time at the Caravanserai, a relic of the Silk Road. Once a haven for traders, it now welcomes tourists wanting a taste of ancient hospitality. Imagine what it was like to be a traveler centuries ago, resting here after a long journey. It's a unique experience!
As mentioned up above, you can still stay here! Rooms are inexpensive, and you'll be sleeping in some of the same rooms that some Silk Road travelers did (albeit slightly restored). Follow these instructions to book a night!
One of my favorite and most cathartic memories from Sheki was grabbing a book of postcards and sitting in the tearoom at the far end of the courtyard, slowly drinking tea and eating snacks, and writing back to friends and family scattered all around the world. A big-time recommendation for a slow, leisurely afternoon.
3. Savor the Local Cuisine: Start with the Savory
The start of a beautiful friendship with piti
A table adorned with a colorful, patterned cloth reflects the allure of Sheki's rich history and offers insight into things to do in Sheki. It features a white plate of cubed bread pieces, inviting you to savor local flavors. Nearby, a wooden cup with a decorated lid holds a beverage waiting to be tasted, with a wooden stirring tool beside it. Lemon wedges and two empty glasses complete the setting as a hand reaches for the spoon—an introduction to one of many delightful culinary experiences among other things to do in Sheki.
A table adorned with a colorful, patterned cloth reflects the allure of Sheki's rich history and offers insight into things to do in Sheki. It features a white plate of cubed bread pieces, inviting you to savor local flavors. Nearby, a wooden cup with a decorated lid holds a beverage waiting to be tasted, with a wooden stirring tool beside it. Lemon wedges and two empty glasses complete the setting as a hand reaches for the spoon—an introduction to one of many delightful culinary experiences among other things to do in Sheki./>
Your Sheki trip isn't complete without trying local delicacies. Piti, a delicious mix of meat (often lamb) and chickpeas with bread, is a must.
A visit to Serin Restaurant offers an affordable and authentic dining experience. The pomegranate wine pairs perfectly with the piti, making for an indulgent feast. Another of our favorites was Sultan House Restaurant.
Another specialty you should try in Sheki is dolma.
4. Savor the Local Cuisine: End with the Sweet
...and an extramarital affair with Sheki Halva!
After you are done with the savory, don’t forget Sheki halva for dessert—it’s sweet, nutty, and unforgettable.
It is a unique take on baklava in that it uses rice paper and rice-flour lattices instead of phyllo dough - they also get painted a nice shade of red thanks to beet juice and saffron. To us, it was even sweeter than the standard baklava you find in places like Turkey or other parts of Turkic nations like Kazakhstan.
We recommend getting it at Aliahmed Sweetstore. It is down the street from the main tourist area, and they prepare it right in front of you.
5. Experience Tea Culture
Tea isn't just a drink here; it's an experience. Enjoy the distinctive ritual of nibbling a sugar cube while sipping Azerbaijani chai. It’s quirky but delightful, and a tradition you’ll quickly grow fond of. A trip to Sheki is incomplete without experiencing this local custom.
As mentioned, our favorite place to drink tea was in the Caravanserai, as it came out as a set with jams and snacks. However, for an even more local experience, head to Park Fuxuli (Füzuli adına park) when the weather is good and enjoy a pot of tea for 1 AZN and a chance to play games like chess and dominoes with the locals.
6. Roam the Təzə Bazar
For the most local experience of them all, you'll have to head to Təzə Bazar. If you have ever been to markets across the Caucasus and Central Asia, you are well aware of the beautiful chaos of them, and Teze Bazar is no exception.
You'll find loads of delicacies here from dried fruits to butchered lamb heads, but even if you don't purchase anything, it is just fun to indulge in the real life of the city.
This is also the perfect starting point for the next number on this list - Kish Village!
7. Ride up to Kish village; Find the Kish Albanian Temple
From Təzə Bazar, take Bus #15 up into the mountains to the Village of Kish (alternatively, you can take a taxi). The bus will miraculously wind its way up unfathomably bumpy, steep, and narrow roads, and in 15 to 20 minutes drop you off in the heart of the village.
If the pace of Sheki is sleepy, Kish is basically in a coma 🤣, but in a good way. You'll experience the unhurried life of Azerbaijani villagers. With every turn on the cobblestone streets, you'll come across happy children shouting "salam" (hello), tons of cute kittens, and a spectacle of colored gates.
The highlight of Kish is the Kish Albanian Temple, believed to be one of the oldest churches in the Caucasus (Caucasus Albania is not related to the current Balkans Albania).
To get back into town, flag down Bus #15 going in the opposite directions or continue back down the main road until you stumble upon some taxis.
8. Connect with Local Hospitality
Our new friends in Sheki!
Sheki’s locals are warm and inviting. If you’re lucky enough to snag a dinner invitation, don’t hesitate. The laughter, stories, and delicious lamb dolma will make for cherished memories. The hospitality you experience is unmatched and offers an authentic taste of Sheki life.
The final two nights we stayed in Sheki, we opted for a homestay instead of a guesthouse, as it was the home of my friend in Baku's family, and we got the local treatment. We sat in the courtyard for several hours drinking tea, then having dinner and then drinking more tea. They were some of the loveliest people I have ever encountered on all of my travels. If you are looking for a local experience and to interact with a Sheki family, you can book here.
Just beware that you may be drinking tea until 10 or 11 pm, which may result in a night of jittery sleeplessness 🙃.
9. Ride in a Soviet Lada
Would you ride in one of these?!
I felt like I had to include this here, because while we have traveled in quite a few places in Azerbaijan, we never saw as many Soviet-era Ladas as we had seen in Sheki. These vehicles are iconic, and I am shocked that they are still running.
Hopping into a Soviet Lada is like driving through history. It’s thrilling, a bit bumpy, but utterly unforgettable. If you get the chance, don’t pass it up—just make sure the seatbelt works (which most likely it won't)!
The perfect excuse for taking one of these Soviet Ladas is to transport yourself to the last place on this list. To find one of these drivers, you can walk to this part of town where a bunch of cab drivers will be waiting.
10. Stroll Through the Bio Garden
After your adventure in the Soviet Lada, you'll be just outside of town at the Bio Garden of Sheki, where various plants thrive. Depending on when you visit, you might see pomegranates or apples. It’s a serene escape, perfect for those who love nature’s simplicity, both plants and animals. I felt like I could be back home on a farm in the United States, aside from the hundreds of rainbow pigeons that greet you just after the entrance.
Map
Below is a map of all the places mentioned in this post. Make sure to save it for your journey to Sheki!
Conclusion
Sheki is a place that offers more than just scenic views; it’s a town of rich history and culture waiting to be explored. Whether you're wandering through ancient ruins or enjoying a piti or halva, Sheki leaves a lasting impression.
It's a destination that hits all the right notes, from culinary delights to historical wonders. If Sheki isn't on your travel list yet, it's time to add it.