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Visiting Tbilisi's Sulfur Baths? Here’s Everything You Need to Know
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- Fabio and Ryan
- @thefabryk
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As exotic as the name "Tbilisi" sounds, the capital city of Georgia's name can be roughly translated to "warm place". Legend has it that when the area was first settled, the founder was pleasantly surprised by the amount of sulfur hot springs coursing through the area, particularly since sulfuric baths are said have major health benefits and properties (unlike the potentially carcinogenic crude oil baths we took in Naftalan, Azerbaijan).
In the 21st century, the springs are still thriving as much as ever and the sulfuric baths of Tbilisi have become quite world-famous (much like the hammams in Turkey). Albeit a little smelly, paired with a kisa scrub, these baths are a fantastic way to spend and afternoon or evening in Tbilisi.
We went to quite a few of them in our time in Tbilisi and one thing we wish we had prior to our first bath was a little more of an understanding of what we were getting ourselves into. If you are not from Georgia, bath etiquette and culture will inevitably look a bit different from what you might have back home.
The iconic mosque-esque exterior of Chreli-Abano baths in Tbilisi
In this post, we will write about our experience at two different bathhouses (one public and one private) to give you a glimpse at Tbilisi sulfur bathhouse life.
Additionally, we will make sure to list some of the best sulfur baths in Tbilisi, so you can make an informed decision before going and also pass over some tips.
So time to undress this topic and prepare you for this adventure.
Table of Contents
Our Experience in the Tbilisi Sulfur Baths
Our First Bath: The Public Bath Experience
It was a frigid Sunday night in October when we arrived at Sulfur Bathhouse No. 5 for a spontaneous sulfur bath session. Our friend Pierre had come all the way from Lyon to visit us, and we were determined to give him the full Tbilisi experience before heading to Sighnaghi the next day. Personally, I had rented a private room at a Tbilisi bathhouse back in 2016—coincidentally at the very same venue, though I didn’t realize it until re-reading this old post. For Fabio, however, this was a first.
If you’ve ever seen photos of Tbilisi’s famous sulfur bath area, Sulfur Bathhouse No. 5 sits just beneath those iconic, heat-releasing domes you can actually walk over. Passing through the Soviet-era entrance, we descended a flight of stairs to find a small line of people and a very expressionless receptionist peering at us through a tiny window. When our turn came, I smiled and said politely, “Gaumarjoba! Can we please have a private room?”
There is a whole world operating below these domes - Sulfur Bathhouse No. 5
In most of these bathhouses, you can rent private rooms by the hour—and they’re glorious. The rooms usually include a sulfuric hot tub, sometimes a sauna, and always a ton of character. But instead of handing us a key, the receptionist somehow became even more expressionless and said, “No private baths, just the public bath.” So, showing up spontaneously on a Sunday night wasn’t our smartest move.
Having plenty of experience with public saunas (albeit gay saunas), we shrugged and accepted the proposition, paying 10 GEL each (a little over €3) for entry. We wandered into the male public bathhouse area (gender-segregated, of course) and found ourselves in a dingy, dimly lit locker room. Almost immediately, a man approached us with an offer: towels, a kisa scrub, and tea for an extra 30 GEL each (about €10). Towel-less and secretly eager for Pierre and Fabio to try the kisa, we agreed.
The vast majority of bathhouse-goers are completely naked, so we followed suit, undressing alongside a mix of corpulent, pasty men. The towel-seller gave us a quick rundown of the agenda, which was surprisingly helpful. First, we’d shower to wash off the dust of Tbilisi, then soak in the hot tub, unwind in the sauna, and finally, he’d collect us for the kisa scrub.
Naked and slightly awkward, we stumbled across the perpetually damp floor into the main bathhouse area. The showers were our first stop, where we rinsed off under lukewarm water. The room itself was a moist, dimly lit cavern that reeked of sulfur—but not unpleasantly so. What did catch me off guard was just how packed it was? Apparently, this was the place to be on a Sunday night.
We made our way to the slightly overheated hot tub and settled in. Fabio, Pierre, and I were just starting to relax when suddenly, the lights went out. Imagine being in a pitch-black, soaking wet room filled with naked strangers—it was unsettling, to say the least. Strangely, no one else reacted. For them, this seemed entirely normal. I, however, was mildly panicked. I stumbled out of the hot tub, grazing bodies in the darkness, and made my way to solid (but still wet) ground just as the lights flickered back on. Crisis averted.
Fabio and I decided to try the sauna next. Like the hot tub, it was packed shoulder to shoulder and outrageously hot. Thankfully, just a couple of minutes in, a man with a towel wrapped around his waist appeared and gestured for us to follow him—it was kisa time.
The kisa scrub took place on cold marble tables, which the attendants quickly “sanitized” with buckets of hot water before instructing us to lie face-down. What followed was a head-to-toe exfoliation using special gloves designed to scrape off dead skin. The process was a little awkward at first, especially in such a public setting, but we soon got over it. After a thorough (albeit underwhelming) scrub, the attendants flipped us over to repeat the process on the front side. They finished by smothering us in soap with oversized sponges and rinsing us off with more sulfur water.
While I didn’t feel particularly rejuvenated—or even convinced of the kisa’s benefits—it was undeniably an experience.
We wrapped up our visit with a cup of tea, bizarrely served in the locker room, where we sat surrounded by half-dressed men coming and going. As we left the forever-damp bathhouse behind and stepped back into the chilly October air, we couldn’t help but laugh at the oddity of it all.
Summary of the Experience
Cleanliness: ★★☆☆☆
Ambiance: ★★☆☆☆
Water Quality: ★★★☆☆
Facilities & Amenities: ★★☆☆☆
Value for Money: ★★★☆☆
Unless you want a truly local experience, avoid the public baths if you can. With all the naked bodies, the occasional power cuts, and the mediocre kisa scrub, it just felt unsafe and unsanitary, but that could have just been an issue on the day we stopped by. On the other hand, it was incredibly cheap, so if you are on a budget and are ready to create a memorable story, go for it!
Our Second Bath: The Private Bath Experience
Only slightly deterred by our public bath experience—and knowing there were much better options out there—I booked us into a private room at a different sulfur bath the following week to give it another shot. This time, I chose Kiev Sulfur SPA, located in a completely different district from the main sulfur bath area. Its proximity to our Airbnb made it the perfect choice.
Booking was incredibly straightforward and done entirely through Facebook Messenger. Naturally, I opted for the gaudiest, most kitsch room I could find. We arrived at 2 p.m. on a Saturday, and Room 6 was ready for us. We paid upfront for the room (50 GEL per hour) and the optional kisa scrub (15 GEL each). Given how underwhelming the previous kisa had been, I was hesitant to pay for one again—but at such a low price, it was worth the gamble. The venue also had a refrigerator with drinks like Borjomi mineral water and beer that we could take into the baths with us.
The room was exactly as I’d imagined: vibrant mosaics covering every surface, exuding strong Soviet-era vibes. Despite the kitsch, it was noticeably cleaner than the public baths we’d visited earlier. However, since this was a more affordable venue, there was no sauna—just the bath and the kisa. Would one hour still feel like too much?
We changed in the spacious front room and made our way to the sulfur hot tub at the back. The water was scorching to the touch, but as we slowly eased ourselves in, our bodies adjusted, and the relaxation took over.
It was already shaping up to be a far better experience than the public bath. After 20 or 30 minutes, a knock on the door interrupted our peace. A man entered—not fitting the corpulent stereotype from our previous visit—and got straight to work.
Ready for our kisa?!
The kisa began with Fabio, and it was immediately clear this scrub would be more thorough. Watching from the hot tub, I could see literal pieces of skin falling off Fabio as the man exfoliated every crevice with precision. Once finished with one side, he flipped him over and repeated the process. The scrub ended with a soapy rinse, and the entire treatment took about 15 minutes—double the time of the public bath kisa.
Then it was my turn. By the end of it, I could confidently say we felt truly rejuvenated. Our skin looked as though it had been given the royal treatment, glowing and refreshed.
With a few minutes remaining on the clock, we soaked in the hot tub one last time, savoring every moment of bliss before changing and stepping back out into the sunny streets of Tbilisi.
Summary of the Experience
Cleanliness: ★★★★☆
Ambiance: ★★★★☆
Water Quality: ★★★★☆
Facilities & Amenities: ★★★★☆
Value for Money: ★★★★★
Opting for a private room redeemed all the faith I had in the Tbilisi sulfur baths. The facilities are much cleaner at most venues and the kisa was much more thorough.
Where to Stay Near the Tbilisi Sulfur Baths
Hotel Aivani Old Tbilisi
Located just steps from the bathhouses in the historic Abanotubani district, this hotel offers a charming boutique experience with views of the baths and Narikala Fortress.
Mercure Tbilisi Old Town
This modern hotel is a short walk from the bathhouse area, offering spacious rooms, a rooftop bar, and great amenities.
Hotel Kopala
Located nearby the bathhouses, this hotel offers views of the Old Town and the baths, with convenient access to Abanotubani’s main attractions.
Which Tbilisi Sulfur Baths are the Best?
Narrowing down the best sulfur baths in Tbilisi isn't an easy task. All of them have pluses and minuses. The important thing to have in mind is that anywhere you go, you will have an experience that you will be maybe (or maybe not) be telling your grandkids.
Chreli-Abano
Housed inside an iconic mosque-like building (when you search Tbilisi, the image of it always comes up as one of the first few results), Chreli-Abano is a luxurious option with newly renovated rooms.
It only offers private rooms and while it is one of the more lavish options, it may be lacking the traditional feeling you will get from the other baths.
You can book it online.
Sulphur Bathhouse No. 5
This was where our public bath experience was, and while I didn't speak so highly of it above 🤣, I did opt for a private room here in 2016, and it provided the quintessential (positive) Tbilisi sulfur bath experience.
Moral of the story is: If you want a public bath experience, this is probably the place to go, as they are not ample in Tbilisi. But if you can book a private room, even better!
There website is on and off, so give them a call at +995 32 272 20 90 to book.
Kiev Sulfur SPA
Kiev Sulfur SPA was where our most recent private room experience was, and it surpassed all expectations. It may not be located where the others are, but it makes up for its location in facilities, incredible kisa scrubs, and inexpensive prices.
Book a room by messaging them on Facebook or giving them a call.
There are quite a few more scattered around the city. For additional baths, check out this post.
Tbilisi Sulfur Bathhouse Tips
General Tips for Visiting Sulfur Baths in Tbilisi:
- Book Ahead for Private Rooms: Spontaneously showing up, especially on weekends or evenings, might leave you without a private room. Use Facebook Messenger or other booking platforms to secure your spot.
- Explore Alternative Locations: Sulfur baths aren’t limited to the main district. Look for options like Kiev Sulfur SPA, which may offer better availability or unique experiences.
- Arrive Prepared: Bring towels, toiletries, and flip-flops. While towels and scrubs are often available for purchase, they will likely come at an extra cost.
- Expect a Range of Experiences: Public baths are affordable and communal but less clean and relaxed. Private baths provide a more luxurious and intimate experience but can lack extras like saunas unless specified.
- Be Aware of Gender Separation: Public baths are usually divided by gender. Male and female groups will need to split up unless you book a private room together.
- Sulfur Baths Can Be Hot: Ease into the water slowly to allow your body to adjust to the temperature.
- Don’t Skip the Kisa Scrub: Although results may vary, a thorough kisa exfoliation can leave your skin feeling fresh and rejuvenated.
Public Bath Tips:
- Adjust Expectations for Public Baths: Public baths can be crowded and have a less glamorous atmosphere. Go for the experience, not the luxury.
- Go Early for Quieter Times: Weekends and evenings tend to be busy. Arriving early may help you avoid the crowds.
- Understand Cultural Norms: Nudity is the norm in public baths. Be prepared to embrace the experience alongside others.
Private Room Tips:
- Opt for a Quirky Room: Many sulfur baths have unique, themed rooms. Choose one that matches your vibe for a memorable experience.
If Traveling as a Male and Female Group:
- Book a Private Room: This is the only way for mixed-gender groups to enjoy the experience together. Private rooms also offer a more personalized and relaxed atmosphere.
- Confirm Policies in Advance: Some venues may have specific rules about mixed-gender usage of private rooms, so inquire when booking.
Additional Considerations:
- Budget Accordingly: Public baths are very affordable (e.g., 10 GEL for entry), while private rooms typically range from 50-200 GEL per hour. Extras like scrubs or towels can add to the cost.
- Allow Time for the Experience: Plan for at least 1–2 hours, especially if you want to include a scrub or spend extra time soaking and relaxing.
- Hydrate Well: Sulfur baths can be dehydrating, so drink water before and after your session.