Vardzia Cave Monastery and Akhaltsikhe: South Georgia Hidden Gems

On our journey from Kutaisi and Batumi, Georgia, on the Black Sea, to Gyumri and Yerevan, Armenia, we decided to break up the long drive with an exciting detour. A bit of research led us to the stunning Vardzia monastery complex, located conveniently midway between our starting point and destination. This hidden gem, carved into the cliffs, is a remarkable example of Georgia’s medieval history and architecture.

While the immediate area around Vardzia has limited accommodations (there are a few little guesthouses and a resort), we opted to stay in the nearby city of Akhaltsikhe. Not only did this allow us to rest before continuing our journey, but it also gave us the opportunity to explore the iconic Rabati Castle, a beautiful blend of Georgian, Ottoman, and Russian influences.

This side trip offered us a deeper dive into the Samtskhe-Javakheti region, previously known to us for its famous Borjomi city. The area is also renowned for its majestic highlands, which host some of Georgia’s largest lakes—Paravani, Tabatskuri, Khanchali, and Kartsakhi. The landscape is shaped by these lakes, along with the Mtkvari River, Georgia’s largest, which flows through the region from Turkey, highlighting the natural beauty that makes this region unforgettable.

Khertvisi Fortress on the way from Akhaltsikhe to Vardzia

Vardzia: A Monastery Network of Caves?!

Vardzia is this incredible monastery system built into a network of caves (complete with winding, steep tunnels). It is some 19 tiers high and about 500 meters longs. When you drive up to it, your mouth will drop in awe at the sheer impressiveness of it.

Is Vardzia Worth Visiting?

Yes, Vardzia is 100% worth visiting! Despite a rainy morning and the chill in the air, even hinting at snow for a few minutes, this 12th-century cave monastery stands out, for me, as one of the best attractions in the Samtskhe-Javakheti region—alongside the very different, yet also impressive resort town, Borjomi. The sprawling monastery complex, situated above the Kura river, isn’t for the faint of heart; you’ll need a bit of fitness to navigate its maze of caves, but it’s an adventure worth every effort.

Wandering through the labyrinthine corridors, you’ll discover rooms once used for various monastic purposes, creating a sense of exploration unlike any other. Located in a picturesque valley, Vardzia’s breathtaking setting and remarkable architecture make it a must-see for anyone traveling through the region. Plus, the photo opportunities are incredible.

Where to Stay in Vardzia

As mentioned, the options around Vardzia are not plentiful, but you will find some options.

The most famed one is Vardzia Resort, a beautiful option and highly rated. You'll be located in the heart of Vardzia and the swimming pool will be a savior from the heat during Southern Georgia summer.

For a unique experience in the heart of nature, book Vardzia Glamping. Nestled near the cave monastery, this glamorous camping offers breathtaking views and a one-of-a-kind stay. You’ll enjoy modern comforts while being immersed in the stunning Georgian countryside—a perfect balance of adventure and relaxation!

How to Get to Vardzia and Akhaltsikhe

How to Get to Akhaltsikhe

From Tbilisi:

If you are headed from Tbilisi, you will have to take the marshrutkas (mini-buses). They leave from Tbilisi's Didube Bus Station every 40 minutes (starting in the early morning).

From Batumi:

Thanks to a helpful tip from our host in Batumi, we discovered a marshrutka (Georgia's inexpensive minibuses) that wasn't well advertised online, especially in English. This daily marshrutka departs from Batumi at 1:00 PM and travels directly to Akhaltsikhe, continuing onward to Akhalkalaki for 35 lari—a perfect route if you're planning to visit Vardzia or nearby areas. While the ride isn’t the most luxurious, it's a budget-friendly option for travelers. Just be prepared for some heavy traffic as you leave Batumi, which can add time to your journey!

The cute old town of Akhaltsikhe with Rabati Castle in the background

How to Get to Vardzia

Once you arrive in Akhaltsikhe or Akhalkalaki, you can either take a marshrutka or a taxi to reach Vardzia, which is about 60 km from both towns. The marshrutka is a direct option but runs only once a day, and you won’t be able to make stops along the way to explore other sites. At our guesthouse, we were offered a tour by a local driver, and while it gave us the chance to visit interesting stops in the area (read more to discover which), we ended up paying more—140 GEL for the day. We recommend going to the Akhaltsikhe Bus Station, where a bunch of taxis will be waiting. If you are feeling up to it, get your negotiation skills on.

While Akhalkalaki is also an option for traveling to Vardzia, we don’t recommend staying there—accommodations are limited, and even locals at the guesthouse joked about the village’s lack of attractions.

Finally in Vardzia!

Akhaltsikhe: The Perfect Base for Exploring

Is Akhaltsikhe Worth Visiting?

Akhaltsikhe is an ideal base for exploring the surrounding region. This charming city offers a relaxed atmosphere and is surrounded by lush, green hills, making it a refreshing contrast to some of Georgia's drier areas. With fewer tourists, Akhaltsikhe provides a more authentic, very laid-back experience, perfect for those seeking a quieter destination. The well-maintained roads in the area also make it easy to navigate, adding to the overall convenience of your stay. A must-see is the impressive Rabati Castle, a historical fortress complex that has been restored and now houses museums, gardens, and even a church, reflecting the area’s rich, multicultural past.

The secluded, Sapara Monastery, just 10 kilometers outside of Akhaltsikhe

Where to Stay in Akhaltsikhe

For a relaxing stay after a day of exploring, Akhaltsikhe Inn is the perfect choice. Offering a gym and a pool, you can unwind and recharge in comfort, enjoying modern amenities while being close to the region’s top attractions. Whether you're in the mood for a workout or a refreshing dip, this hotel has everything you need to relax and rejuvenate after your adventures.

Things to Do in Vardzia and Akhaltsikhe

In addition to exploring the stunning Vardzia Monastery and the historic Rabati Castle, our guided private tour introduced us to several other captivating attractions in the area:

• Khertvisi Fortress: One of Georgia's oldest fortifications, dating back to the 2nd century BC. With its prime location at the junction of two rivers, Khertvisi played a vital role in regional defense and offers impressive valley views.

The only guests at Khertvisi Fortress

• Sapara Monastery: A hidden gem in the mountains (10 kilometers from Akhaltsikhe), this medieval monastery is known for its frescoes and peaceful atmosphere. Dating back to the 9th century, it’s a quiet reflection of Georgia’s religious past.

Sapara Monastery

• Tmogvi: An ancient fortress perched high on cliffs overlooking the Mtkvari River. Built in the 10th century, its crumbling ruins tell tales of Georgia’s medieval defense strategies, while offering spectacular panoramic views.

• Vanis Kvabebi: Near Vardzia, this rock-carved monastery from the 8th century is a fascinating testament to Georgian monastic life, with cells and chapels carved into steep cliffs.

• Sulphur Baths in Abastumani / გოგირდის აბანო: Famous for their therapeutic properties, these bath complex offer a chance to unwind amidst nature, although we didn’t make it here due to time constraints.

Where to Eat and Local Cuisine

What to Eat in Samtskhe-Javakheti (Historical Meskheti Region)

The historic Meskheti region, now part of Samtskhe-Javakheti in southern Georgia, offers unique flavors that reflect both local traditions and the proximity to Turkey. Alongside the classic Georgian dishes, we discovered some special regional highlights that are definitely worth trying (though we didn’t get to sample everything—including a dish with snails!):

• Turkish Coffee and Skewered Kebabs: With Turkey just across the border, the influence is unmistakable. The Turkish coffee is rich and aromatic, while the chicken skewers are an absolute delight—each skewer was served with 400 grams of tender, juicy chicken. Pure food heaven.

• Meskhetian Khinkali: These smaller khinkali are filled with different ingredients, like pork, and served with an onion-based sauce. The delicate size and savory filling make them a must-try.

• *Meskhetian Khachapuri*: A regional take on Georgia’s famous cheese-filled bread, this version is just as comforting and indulgent as the rest of the country’s varieties. This is Ryan's favorite variety!

• Tenili Cheese: A local favorite, this cheese is made into long threads, often eaten with just bread. Its mild, creamy flavor and stringy texture make it a simple but delicious treat.

Tenili Cheese - half eaten 🤣 (we couldn't wait to take a picture)

Best Restaurant in Vardzia

When it comes to dining in Vardzia, there are several restaurants located near the base of the cave complex. However, the standout among them is undoubtedly ვარძია მასპინძელი - VARDZIA MASPINDZELI. Recommended by our guide, this restaurant not only serves delicious food but also boasts the best view of the Vardzia caves. From the terrace, you can enjoy your meal while taking in the breathtaking panorama of the ancient monastery, which makes for a truly unique dining experience.

Best Restaurant in Akhaltsikhe

We found two places for dinner that did not disappoint in Akhaltsikhe.

• Dubli: Recommended by the family of the guesthouse we stayed in, this place was just up the road from the old town and completely local (you can tell because locals will order massive plates of khinkali and beer).
• Restaurant Mimino: Although catered a bit more for tourists, the prices are still just as cheap as other local restaurants. Make sure to try the Chicken Shkmeruli or barbecue options.

Conclusion

To wrap up our journey, we took a taxi for 130 GEL to the Ninotsminda-Bavra border between Georgia and Armenia. As we neared the border, the landscape began to shift, with the scenery becoming drier, taking on rich tones of yellow and brown—a preview of what was to come as we traveled toward Gyumri.

Exploring Vardzia and Akhaltsikhe offered us a profound glimpse into the Samtskhe-Javakheti region’s incredible blend of history, culture, and natural beauty. From the breathtaking cave monastery of Vardzia to the peaceful charm of Akhaltsikhe with its fascinating Rabati Castle, this leg of our trip highlighted the diversity and wonder of Georgia. Whether you're drawn to explore the architectural marvels, hike around scenic lakes, or savor the region’s distinct cuisine, a visit here will leave you with lasting memories. If Georgia is on your travel list, don’t miss the chance to experience the hidden treasures of Vardzia and Akhaltsikhe—you won’t regret it!

Crossing the Georgia-Armenia border!