14 Things to Do in Gyumri: Armenia's Second-Biggest City

Debating whether to stop in Gyumri or not on your trip to Armenia? I’m so glad we decided to go for it. Gyumri, Armenia's second-largest city, is a hidden gem—a true diamond in the rough that's well worth a visit, as we quickly discovered. The city exudes its own unique charm, with a cozy, walkable atmosphere that feels worlds apart from the hustle of Yerevan, even though they share a few architectural similarities. Its fascinating history is deeply tied to the devastating 1988 earthquake, which left lasting scars on the cityscape. Yet Gyumri's resilience shines through, as you’ll see in its ongoing construction projects and the determined spirit of its people. Monthly tremors still occur, but they’re minor—just a subtle reminder that this is a city in transformation.

As we wandered the streets, Gyumri revealed itself as the perfect off-the-beaten-path destination—a city still rediscovering itself but already radiating a fresh, vibrant energy. Add a gay bar, and it might just be perfect 😜! But even without it, Gyumri offers a warm, welcoming retreat where every corner holds a story waiting to be uncovered. If you're planning a trip to Armenia, Gyumri is a must, and when you likely head on next to Yerevan, don't miss our guide 25 Amazing Things to Do in Yerevan!

One of the bizarre soviet-era fountain complexes in Gyumri

Gyumri FAQs

What is Gyumri Famous For?

The name Gyumri is thought to originate from the Armenian word “gium”, meaning “fortress” or “stronghold”, a testament to its historical significance as a strategic settlement. Over the years, the city has undergone several name changes, shaped by its role as a cultural crossroads for Armenians, Russians, and Georgians. Yet, through these transformations, Gyumri has retained its distinctly Armenian character.

Gyumri’s identity is deeply rooted in its resilience, particularly in the aftermath of the devastating 1988 earthquake. Known for its black tufa architecture (and brown/orange, unlike Yerevan's characteristically pink architecture), the city has risen from its challenges, symbolizing strength and renewal. Gyumri is also home to a rich brewing tradition, with the Gyumri Beer Brewery, established in 1970, standing as Armenia’s second-largest brewery and producing beloved pale lagers like Gyumri, Ararat, and Aleksandrapol. Local establishments like the Poloz Mukuch Beerhouse, housed in a 19th-century mansion in the historic Kumayri district, highlight this tradition, offering visitors a taste of Gyumri’s beer culture alongside traditional Armenian cuisine.

The city’s vibrant arts scene, music, and traditional crafts such as pottery and rug weaving further celebrate the enduring spirit and identity of Gyumri.

When Is the Best Time to Visit Gyumri?

Armenia boasts over 300 days of sunshine, making it a dry paradise—perfect for travelers who dislike rain (like me!). Gyumri, however, is nestled in the north and at a high elevation and is always cooler than Yerevan. Surrounded by mountains, including the snow-capped Aragats, the city carries a crisp charm, especially in half-seasons like spring and autumn. When we visited in October, the evenings were chilly—I had my hoodie on and almost needed gloves! If you’re not a fan of the cold, plan for milder months to fully enjoy Gyumri's charm.

It's always sunny in Gyumri

How Long Should I Stay in Gyumri?

We always advocate for slow travel—you want to leave with memories, not confusion over which city had which sights! A single day in Gyumri doesn’t do justice to its charm and peculiar character. Two to three days strike a perfect balance, giving you enough time to soak in the history, art, and unique vibe. Beyond three days, you might run out of activities unless you’ve got a specific goal—like taking a ceramics class to channel your inner artisan.

Where to Stay in Gyumri

Staying in Gyumri’s Old City is like stepping into a time machine, with its tufa-stone buildings and atmospheric streets. Here, you’ll be within walking distance of the city’s main attractions, making it the perfect base for exploring. Even for destinations outside the city, like the Armachen Monastery, reliable taxi services such as Yandex or GG make it easy to get around.

How to Get from Yerevan to Gyumri

Getting from Yerevan to Gyumri is a straightforward and scenic journey, with multiple options to suit your travel style and budget. Here’s how you can make the trip:

• By Train: The train ride takes about 3 hours, offering a leisurely and picturesque route through Armenia’s countryside. It’s one of the most affordable options, and if you’re not in a rush, it’s perfect for soaking in the views. Trains depart a few times a day from Yerevan Railway Station. You can book a ticket here, but you need to have an Armenian phone number. Otherwise, you can book at the train station in Yerevan.
• By Car: Driving from Yerevan to Gyumri takes about 2 hours. Renting a car gives you the flexibility to stop along the way at landmarks or charming villages. Be mindful of road conditions during winter.
• By Marshrutka (Minibus): Marshrutkas are a popular and budget-friendly option. They leave frequently from the Kilikia Bus Station in Yerevan and take roughly 2–2.5 hours, depending on traffic. Expect a no-frills, local experience!
• By Taxi: A taxi is the fastest and most comfortable option, especially if you’re traveling with luggage or a group. Prices can vary, but it’s worth negotiating beforehand or using a trusted taxi app like Yandex or GG.

Now, let’s turn our attention to the 14 Best Things to Do in Gyumri:

1. Black & Orange Gyumri: A City Draped in Drama

If Yerevan is celebrated as the "Pink City" due to its rosy tufa stone, Gyumri earns its nickname as the "Black and Orange City," thanks to the distinctive dark and fiery hues of its tufa buildings. This volcanic stone defines the city’s character, with its earthy tones giving Gyumri a striking and dramatic aesthetic.

While some locals, like our guide Aram, feel the city’s somber tones seem too stark, we found it enchanting—especially the remnants of Gyumri's storied past. Many structures still bear the scars of the devastating 1988 earthquake, with decrepit façades and abandoned interiors lending the city an eerie, melancholic charm. These buildings whisper untold stories of resilience and history, making them irresistible for photographers and explorers alike.

Don’t miss wandering through the city streets to uncover these architectural treasures. Some ruins are open enough to step inside for a closer look—but always explore with caution. These buildings aren’t just remnants of tragedy; they are a testament to Gyumri's enduring spirit and an integral part of its evolving identity.

And while you're exploring, don't forget to stop and drink fresh water from one of the many pulpulaks—the traditional Armenian fountains that offer refreshing, crisp water straight from the mountains. They're not just functional but are also a symbol of the city's communal life.

You'll find these impressive black tufa facades everywhere!

2. Savoring Ponchik with a View of Vardanants Square

Gyumri’s Vardanants Square is always buzzing, especially on weekends, and it's the perfect place to indulge in the city’s beloved Ponchik. Head to Family Café Ponchik Monchik, located right in the square, where these airy, deep-fried dough balls come filled with your choice of jam, vanilla cream, or Nutella. The moment you take a bite, the filling bursts out while the dough deflates—a strangely satisfying experience that will have you ordering more!

Despite the café's popularity, tables turn over quickly, so you're likely to find a seat and enjoy watching the lively square. It’s a must-try local treat in Gyumri!

Try to eat just one ponchik, I dare you!

3. Faith and Resilience: Gyumri’s Two Iconic Cathedrals

Gyumri is home to two iconic churches that reflect the city’s rich religious and cultural history: the Cathedral of the Holy Mother of God and St. All Savior’s Church.

The Cathedral, built from distinctive black tufa, feels like a beautiful casket adorned with jewels, blending Catholic and Russian Orthodox elements due to the influence of migrant believers. Photography inside is prohibited, but the church’s intricate beauty speaks for itself. Both churches suffered significant damage during the 1988 earthquake, and remnants of the original structures are displayed in the churchyards.

At St. All Savior’s, you can see how the fallen stones have been cleverly reused like puzzle pieces to reconstruct the building, giving it a unique historical and architectural character. Even if the courtyard hasn’t been completed yet, don’t miss the Alley of Khachkars, also called the Armenian Genocide Memorial, located on the side of the church. This poignant pathway, adorned with intricately carved stone crosses, leads to a fountain that is still under construction, adding layers of history and symbolism to your visit.

The gorgeously restored, St. All Saviors Church

4. Gyumri’s Geopolitical Layers: Past and Present

Gyumri’s military history blends the past and present, with landmarks highlighting the city’s strategic significance. Near the Mother Armenia statue is the Black Fortress, a 19th-century Russian military structure now used as a concert venue.

The Mother Armenia sculpture features a second, more ominous face directed toward Turkey, symbolizing the tense historical relationship between Armenia and its neighbor. Nearby, a church commemorates Pope Francis' 2016 visit, showcasing the altar from his mass.

The Russian 102nd Military Base, visible from here, reflects Armenia's current geopolitical role, with soldiers deployed to the Ukrainian front, adding depth to the city's ongoing security relevance. Together, these sites reveal Gyumri's critical military importance through time. Our guide shared that sentiments toward Russia are shifting, especially after their lack of support during the Artsakh/Nagorno-Karabakh conflict, even though Russian propaganda remains prevalent on local TV.

5. Meet Nadia at the Iron Fountain: A Rusty Love Story

No trip to Gyumri is complete without a visit to the enigmatic Iron Fountain. Hop into a Yandex or GG cab and cross the newer parts of the city to find it. Once a stunning centerpiece, the fountain now stands as a massive, rusted relic of its former glory—its once-precious materials long stolen. Despite its weathered state, it’s a hauntingly beautiful sight.

If you’re lucky, you’ll meet Nadia and her adorable army of puppies. Nadia, a warm-hearted woman with Ukrainian-Russian roots whose family settled in Gyumri during better times, is the true soul of this place, also known as the Friendship Fountain. She’ll captivate you with tales of the fountain’s heyday, when the area buzzed with life, and might even show you old photos that bring its past to life.

Unfortunately, the neighborhood has fallen into disrepair and can feel a bit unsafe. Nadia struggles to care for her pups, so if you stop by, consider bringing food or a small donation to help her furry companions. It’s a visit filled with stories, charm, and the chance to make a difference.

6. Mount Aragats: Gyumri’s Majestic Neighbor (Sorry, Ararat!)

Mount Aragats, the highest peak in Armenia, provides a stunning backdrop to Gyumri, visible from various vantage points around the city. For the best view, head to Central Park, where the Ferris wheel offers a panoramic perspective.

Unlike the famous Mount Ararat, which is located in Turkey and visible from Yerevan, Mount Aragats remains snow-capped year-round, creating a striking contrast with the dry landscape of Gyumri. There’s a quirky story that a Russian humanist once mistakenly thought Aragats was Ararat, and told people in Russia that you could see Mount Ararat from Gyumri. It’s a common mix-up, but no less charming!

While in the area around Central Park, you might also spot Aslan, Gyumri’s Instagram-famous dog. Though a bit older now, Aslan has over 5,000 followers and is a beloved local celebrity.

The decaying soviet-era theme park is all part of the charm of Central Park

Mt. Aragats

7. Varem Marem Corner: Gyumri’s Quirkiest Spot

Head down from Central Park, passing spots like Amazing TUMO center Gyumri the special educational school visited by Angela Merkel, where kids can take free tech and communications classes just by registering, to find the Varem Merem Corner—a hidden gem famous for its cameo in the classic Armenian film Tango of Our Childhood.

Here, you can visit the Varem Merem Art Studio, a quirky space where you can stick your name on their art wall using letters in Armenian, Latin, or Russian, and grab a truly unique souvenir: your face drawn on a coffee cup at the nearby coffee window. It's the perfect mix of nostalgia, creativity, and local charm that Gyumri does so well.

8. Back in Time: A Soviet-Era Haircut at Lux Barber Shop

We stepped into Lux Barber Shop (men’s only), and it felt like stepping back in time. While modern hipsters try to recreate retro barbershop vibes, this place is the real deal—authentic and untouched for decades. The red-seated chairs, aged mirrors, and vintage tools create an atmosphere straight out of the Soviet era.

Getting a haircut here isn’t just grooming; it’s an experience steeped in history. For just a few dollars, you’ll leave feeling sharp and part of something timeless. Pro tip: bring small change for the cleaning lady—she’s the unsung hero keeping this iconic spot spotless.

9. Abovyan Street: Gyumri’s Soulful Stroll

Walking down Abovyan Street is like peeling back the layers of Gyumri’s history, culture, and resilience. Start at the cozy Aregak Bakery and Café that outshines Starbucks by a mile and with a meaningful twist—they proudly employ people with Down syndrome and other disabilities, making your coffee stop feel extra special.

As you wander further, you’ll pass remnants of Soviet times, like the old cinema that once buzzed with moviegoers but now houses Ani Restaurant, where you can savor Gyumri's Khash or sometimes known as Khash with Lavash (trust us, you’ll want to try it).

This street is a mix of nostalgia and rebirth, capturing the spirit of a city that wears its history proudly.

Abovyan Street at night

10. Explore Gyumri’s Rich Art, Handicrafts, and Museums

Gyumri thrives as a hub for creativity and tradition, making it a must-visit for art lovers and culture seekers. The city boasts several museums, including the Museum of National Architecture and Urban Life, which will give you a glimpse into Gyumri's heritage through stunning architectural displays.

Artisans keep Gyumri’s spirit alive with handicrafts and ceramics workshops, thanks to initiatives like the one led by Antonio Montalto, Italy’s Honorary Consul to Armenia. His work includes restoration projects and ceramics in the historic center. Gyumri even hosts a Biennale, showcasing contemporary Armenian art and innovation.

Fabio on the look out for Gyumri's art scene!

11. Raise a Glass to Gyumri’s Brewing Heritage

Gyumri’s beer scene (in contrast to Yerevan's brandy and wine scene) is a delightful surprise for visitors, with Gyumri Beer and Alexandrapol Lager standing out as local favorites. Gyumri Beer is light and refreshing, while Alexandrapol Lager offers a bolder, slightly bitter edge.

We personally enjoyed ordering beer with almost every meal—it felt like a perfect complement to the hearty local dishes! While we didn’t visit a brewery ourselves, the city’s brewing tradition is woven into its culture, making every pint a little taste of Gyumri’s history.

12. Seafood in a Landlocked Country? Gyumri’s Fish Restaurant Surprise

Gyumri's Fish Restaurant (Cherkezi Dzor) offers a unique dining experience with fresh fish sourced from its own fish farm. If you're a fan of seafood, you’ll love the chance to indulge in the largest fish you can imagine—it’s a true feast! The portions are so generous, finishing the meal may feel like a challenge.

Interestingly, the restaurant is located just a few meters away from the Russian 102nd Military Base, so it feels a bit bizarre taking a taxi into the restaurant, but don't worry.

This is a portion for two, yet I think it was the most fish I have ever eaten in a single setting.

13. Get a Vodka at Bar Rasputin: A Russian Twist in Gyumri

Isn’t it wild to find yourself in Armenia, sipping vodka in a bar where everyone’s speaking Russian and the walls are plastered with bizarre portraits of Rasputin? Welcome to Bar Rasputin, where the vibe is equal parts weird and wonderful, with alternative music that perfectly matches the eclectic crowd.

The scene gets even stranger when you realize the mix of Russian soldiers stationed in Gyumri rubbing shoulders with Russian expats and digital nomads who’ve fled their homeland. It’s a curious, almost surreal blend of stories and perspectives. While Gyumri is still waiting for its first gay bar, this place is a must-visit.

Embrace the chaos, enjoy a vodka, and let the moment confuse and entertain you in equal measure.

Note: if you are looking for LGBTQ+ life in Gyumri, save that for Yerevan, as there is a bit more to offer!

14. Gyumri Market: Where Flavors, Fabrics, and Finds Collide

Step into the heart of Gyumri Shuka, a bustling market open daily from 9 AM to 6 PM, where the air is thick with the scent of spices, dried fruits, and coffee beans—seriously, the dried apricots here are next-level. But it’s not just about food; this area is also a hotspot for textiles, making it the perfect place to snag some stylish and affordable clothing.

Whether you’re shopping for unique souvenirs or treating yourself to some local fashion, the Gyumri Market is a vibrant slice of the city you won’t want to miss.

Can’t Make it to Armenia 🇦🇲? Experience Armenian Culture in Italy and France! If you're in Europe and curious about Armenian heritage, visit San Lazzaro degli Armeni in Venice, a tiny island home to the Mekhitarist Monastery since 1717. Explore its vast collection of manuscripts, artifacts, and guided tours that celebrate Armenia’s literary and artistic traditions. You can even sample Armenian delicacies like rose jam. Alternatively, head to the Armenian Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist in Paris, a stunning church serving as a cultural hub for the Armenian diaspora in France. Both sites offer a fascinating glimpse into Armenia’s rich history without leaving Europe!

Bonus: Gyumri’s Coffee Vending Machines: The Addiction You Didn’t See Coming

We’re used to seeing coffee vending machines tucked away in public buildings or schools (shoutout to Italian schools vibes), but in Gyumri? They’re everywhere—like, literally on every street corner. And the best part? They’re outside. You grab a hot coffee for a few cents, day or night, and it’s oddly comforting.

Ryan became weirdly obsessed with them, and I still can’t figure out why. Maybe it’s the novelty of sipping something warm while strolling the chilly streets or just the simplicity of it all. Either way, it’s a small but surprisingly cozy Gyumri ritual you’ll quickly get hooked on.

Map of Things To Do in Gyumri