Is it Songkhla Worth Visiting? A Guide to Songkhla Old Town

You’ve probably never heard of this town and province in southern Thailand, which hopes to become a UNESCO World Heritage Site. But, after reading this guide, I hope you’ll want to visit. First, let’s talk about how we ended up here.

While staying in Penang, Malaysia, on the first day of the new year, a driver mentioned that trains and buses could easily take us to Thailand. He told us he often visited a place called Hat Yai and even considered moving there (at this point, we had never heard of Hat Yai's existence).

After more than two months in Malaysia, the idea of crossing the border into Thailand, one of the world’s most popular travel destinations, was tempting.

And, honestly? Beer played a role in our decision. Malaysia’s high alcohol taxes had us missing the occasional drink, so the thought of exploring a new region in Thailand became even more appealing.

A bit of research revealed that Hat Yai and Songkhla form Thailand’s third-largest metropolitan area. While Hat Yai is a bustling industrial city, Songkhla stood out with its rich history, cultural charm, and stunning beaches like Samila Beach. It was time to check it out.

The Songkhla Old Town stage lighting up for Lunar New Year with an incomprehensible Chinese opera

Where to Stay in Songkhla Old Town

We ended up loving Songkhla so much that we stayed for more than two weeks, moving between different accommodations. Here’s where we stayed and what we recommend:

• Hostel Number 5: Ideal for budget travelers, this hostel is close to Tang Kuan Hill and the beach. Simple but well-located.
• Thae Raek Antique Hotel: A charming boutique hotel near the old town and the beach. The decor is stunning and perfect for photos, but the rooms were a bit small for working remotely. Thankfully, the common area downstairs made up for it.
• Glow Rattana Songkhla: This hotel is a fantastic choice, conveniently located between the beach and the old town. It was spotless, spacious, and offered great value.

The inviting interiors you can expect at Thae Raek Antique Hotel

• Laguna Grand Hotel & Spa Songkhla: Where we’d stay if we had a bigger budget—looked luxurious and tempting but wasn’t in our price range for this trip. However, our friend stayed there, and loved it.

Songkhla Map

What’s the best way to get to Songkhla?

Most people fly to Hat Yai to visit the famous little island of Koh Lipe, so it's a good idea to spend some time in Songkhla before or after heading to this paradise island.

By Plane: If you’re traveling from Bangkok to Songkhla, you can fly into Hat Yai Airport and then take a Grab from Hat Yai Airport to Songkhla.

By Bus: You can also go by bus from Bangkok), but it is not recommended because the roads in Thailand are not the best, and it will be a long journey.

By Train: You can take a sleeper train from Bangkok to Hat Yai and then take a Grab to Songkhla.

By Boat: There is or was allegedly a ferry to Phumi Cham Yeam in Cambodia, but it doesn’t seem to be operating, as we haven’t found any information about it, sadly.

From Malaysia: For us, coming from Penang, Malaysia, there were trains and many buses going to Songkhla. We chose the bus, as it was really cheap. The journey takes around 4-5 hours. You have to cross the border, so you’ll need to get off the bus twice, but the border crossing is quite smooth. Once we arrived in Hat Yai, we took a Grab to reach Songkhla. Yes, the same Grab app works in both Malaysia and Thailand.

The serene Songkhla Lake and one of its many antique fishing boats gliding by.

What is Songkhla known for?

Songkhla, a city with over 1,000 years of history, was a vital trading port for the Malay Kingdom before becoming part of the Sukhothai and Ayutthaya kingdoms. Its cultural richness stems from a unique blend of Thai, Chinese, and Malay influences, visible in its architecture, cuisine, and traditions.

The city’s significance increased further when it became a center for the East India Dutch Company in the 17th century. This period marked an influx of foreign merchants and traders, contributing to the diverse cultural landscape of Songkhla. The Dutch established trade routes and settlements in the area, leading to the introduction of new goods and ideas.

Songkhla plays a key role in Thailand’s energy sector as a logistical hub for oil and gas exploration in the Gulf of Thailand. This industry has boosted the local economy, providing jobs and infrastructure development. However, it has also raised environmental concerns, particularly about its impact on fishing and marine ecosystems. Tensions between fishermen and oil companies highlight the challenge of balancing economic growth with sustainability. Despite these issues, Songkhla remains a vibrant city known for its rich history, cultural heritage, and natural beauty.

One of the most interesting things is how welcoming the people are. Everyone, literally everyone, says ‘hi’ when you walk by, making you feel at home.

The Hub Ho Hin Red Rice Mill in the heart of Old Songkhla

What is the meaning of Songkhla?

The name “Songkhla” comes from the Malay word Singgora, which means “City of Lions.” Singgora was the old name of the city, reflecting its historical roots. Despite the name, there are no lions here—just a charming seaside town with plenty of character!

Things to Do in Songkhla

Explore Songkhla’s Old Town

Start your journey in the Old City, a thriving district brimming with history and charm. Don’t miss the Hub Ho Hin Red Rice Mill, a former rice factory transformed into a cultural space, and the Nakhon Nai Museum, a colonial-style building housing fascinating exhibits. Stroll through the Old Town Songkhla Gate and wander along narrow streets adorned with colorful murals, many overlooking the tranquil Songkhla Lake. For a peaceful work spot or coffee break, we loved Cafe Der See, a lakeside gem with serene views and great coffee. Nearby, the Phuttharaksa Jetty is a historic port worth a visit.

Missing those Saturday mornings relaxing and taking in the views at Cafe Der See

Visit the Songkhla National Museum

The Songkhla National Museum is jam-packed with artifacts, art, and cultural heritage. Housed in a beautiful Sino-Portuguese-style building, it offers insight into Songkhla’s past, from its early trade connections to its role as a regional hub.

📌 Important to note: The museum is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays and shuts at 4 PM daily—plan your visit accordingly! It’s currently undergoing restoration, but the accessible sections are free to visit, making it absolutely worth a stop.

The serene grounds around the Songkhla National Museum

Hike Up Tang Kuan Hill

A visit to Tang Kuan Hill is a must for breathtaking views of Songkhla. At the summit, you’ll find the iconic Phra Chedi Luang, a golden stupa that adds a spiritual touch to the landscape. The climb up is rewarding, offering lush greenery and scenic vistas along the way.

In order to hike, you'll have to navigate to the Khao Tang Kuan Naga Staircase on the eastside of the hill. Be mindful of the mischievous monkeys...they can be intimidating but generally keep to themselves as long as you don’t disturb them. The hike should take 15-20 minutes and is tranquil. Both times we did it, we didn't encounter another soul.

There is also a funicular on the west that takes less than 5 minutes to go up and down. We took the stairs up and the funicular down both times.

The start of the Khao Tang Kuan Naga Staircase

Relax at Samila Beach

Samila Beach is a peaceful coastal retreat made even more enchanting by local legends. The Golden Mermaid statue is a beloved icon of Songkhla and a popular photo spot. Nearby, sculptures of a cat and a mouse tell the story of three friends—a dog, a cat, and a mouse—who tried to escape with stolen treasure. Their greed led to betrayal, and they all drowned, turning into the landmarks we see today: Ko Nu (Mouse Island) and Ko Maeo (Cat Island), visible from the shore.

The dog, however, struggled against the waves and managed to reach the shore of Samila Beach. Exhausted and defeated, it took its last breath on the sand. Over time, its body transformed into the aforementioned Tang Kuan Hill, standing as a silent witness to the tale of ambition and loss.

Though storm season left some debris on the beach during our visit, the sunsets here were unforgettable. The water quality wasn’t ideal for swimming (beware of jellyfish), but the calming atmosphere made it the perfect place to relax and reflect.

🎨 Art on the Beach: Around Samila Beach, you’ll find small stalls selling ceramic sculptures you can paint yourself. You get to sit on a towel, customize your piece, and take it home...a fun and creative beachside experience!

You can even paint a miniature Sailor Moon!

Take a Day Trip to Ko Yo Island

Just a short scooter ride from Songkhla to Ko Yo Island blends natural beauty with cultural highlights. Cross the scenic Tinsulanonda Bridge, which connects the island to the mainland, for stunning lake views.

While on the island, we visited Wat Khao Bo, a hilltop temple with a striking serpent-shaped staircase. Climbing to the top rewarded us with panoramic views. For a laid-back break, Good Mountain Café is a must, offering stunning vistas and the perfect spot to unwind with a coffee.

Don’t leave without sampling the island’s fresh seafood at one of its charming waterfront restaurants.

A questionable prop display at Good Mountain Cafe

How is Songkhla's Nightlife?

Songkhla’s nightlife is modest yet vibrant, with a unique charm that reflects the city’s laid-back character. The area between Chalathat Beach and Samila Beach is a popular spot for locals and visitors alike, lined with restaurants and bars, some featuring live music. The most popular are Knock Out, Full Moon bar and The Pirates, usually filled with plenty of young locals. Our favorite hang out spots though, are the nearby restaurants. These places are always bustling with people and serve fresh, delicious seafood, making them an ideal spot for a relaxed evening by the sea.

During Chinese New Year, the city comes alive with night markets near the old city walls, offering a mix of mouthwatering food, handmade crafts, and festive energy. Outside special events, the Wachira Night Market is a local favorite, where residents gather to enjoy affordable street food in a lively atmosphere.

For a glimpse into Songkhla’s past, Si Suda Alley is a peculiar and somewhat gritty relic of the city’s oil boom days. Back when Songkhla hosted international oil workers, this street was bustling with bars and nightlife catered to Westerners. Today, it’s a mix of small, colorful bars and even the occasional divey spot, like the quirky Irish Pub, Buzz Stop, which still serves a bit of everything. While this area might seem a little unconventional, it’s fascinating to see how history lingers in Songkhla’s nightlife scene.

We couldn’t resist checking out Corner Bier, a bar with a fun, eclectic vibe and filled with locals. While the era of oil workers may have passed, the remnants of that time remain in the city’s bar scene, offering a glimpse into a different side of Songkhla. For us, the blend of past and present made exploring these nightlife spots a curious and memorable experience.

The Pirates, before it explodes in late night wildness.

Is Songkhla Gay-Friendly?

Surprisingly, yes! Despite its proximity to more conservative provinces like Pattani and Narathiwat, Songkhla felt welcoming. We noticed rainbow flags on clothing and visited inclusive spots like Chailay Coffee, overlooking the beach, and Grandpa Never Drunk Alone, a quirky bar with an alternative vibe.

We happened to be in Thailand when the gay marriage bill passed, which added to the hopeful and progressive atmosphere. If you’re looking to connect with locals, Grindr and Jack’d are both used here, though the user base is smaller than in nearby Hat Yai. Many people also use Line for communication, which is worth downloading for an easier local experience.

Since Songkhla is a university town, there’s a younger crowd, making it easier to meet people.

Even so, it is not as open as cities like Bangkok, Phuket, or Chiang Mai. This is again likely due to its proximity to more conservative provinces. At this time, you won't be finding any exclusively LGBTQ+ spaces or bars, but that'll hopefully change in the future.

I had to rock my inclusive hat on the day Thailand's same-sex marriage became a reality!

Which Food Should I Try in Songkhla?

Food was definitely a highlight of our trip! Our absolute favorite dish was spicy mango salad with cashews, bursting with tangy, sweet, and spicy notes. The green papaya salad (som tam) was another must-try, with its refreshing crunch and perfectly balanced flavors. And, of course, Pad See Ew, a stir-fried noodle dish made with wide, flat rice noodles, soy sauce, and either chicken, pork, or seafood. We absolutely loved this dish—its rich, smoky flavor from the wok and the perfect balance of sweet and savory made it one of our go-to meals in Songkhla.

Seafood lovers will be thrilled by the abundance of fresh catches, including squid, shrimp, and seabass, prepared in various delicious Thai styles.

We also discovered Khao Yum, a fragrant southern Thai rice salad mixed with herbs, shredded coconut, and spices. This unique dish perfectly captures the essence of Songkhla’s local food culture.

For quick and tasty bites, the Thai crepes and grilled skewers at the night markets are unbeatable.

A 380 baht fish the size of my forearm is available at the beachside restaurants.

Conclusion

So, is Songkhla and Songkhla Old Town worth visiting? For us, absolutely! While it may not appeal to everyone, those who appreciate a laid-back atmosphere, diverse restaurants and cafés, and a mix of nature—from jungle-covered hills to tranquil lakes and beaches—will find it a hidden gem.

However, if you’re mainly looking for a beach destination, you might want to look elsewhere. During our visit, we noticed a lack of swimming, possibly due to environmental concerns linked to oil exploration in the area or jellyfish. That said, we’ll definitely miss the relaxed vibe of Songkhla when we return to the fast-paced life of Berlin.

Would we come back? Yep, we miss it already!